it’s hard to believe, but you can have an inexpensive full lunch with wine in a place, where locals eat in Palermo – right in the cente of the city. 

Where locals eat in Palermo

I wouldn’t even try to eat in the centre, unless I was told by a local friend that, just a one-minute walk from Teatro Massimo, I could enjoy a self-service lunch in Palermo. Because Fillipo lives and works in Palermo, he knows all the secrets of the city; also, that many locals lunch at Basile Focacceria del Massimo, Via Bara All’Olivella, 76.  During the week, it’s full of people in all kinds of uniforms and office suits.

And even if it’s called Focacceria, they serve fresh pasta, fish, lasagna, polpette, and so on, just like a restaurant.  And now the best part: I went there with Mauro; for a full lunch for two of us we paid 35 Euros.

I’m guessing many bloggers would call it another ‘hidden gem’, but for me it’s just an unpretentious place with real, tasty and great value for money, Sicilian food. 

If you’re after a real Sicilian experience—instead of just hitting fancy restaurants and ticking off monuments—you should also pop into places like Focacceria del Massimo.

Don’t Freak Out: It’s Not as Small as It Looks

Focacceria del Massimo – where locals eat in Palermo, may seem like a small restaurant, but it’s actually quite large. There are five or six tables outside, and many more inside in the spacious rooms. So don’t worry about having to eat standing up when you read about how to order there. Also, remember that this isn’t a fancy restaurant where you spend hours sitting at a table. No, you order, eat, and leave. So, here’s how it works:

How to order at Focacceria del Massimo: A step-by-step guide:

• The prices and menu might vary, but it was like that 5 days ago.

• Check the counter on the right: This is where the ready-made food is displayed. It’s fresh, but they’ll heat some meals in a microwave before serving—don’t worry, it doesn’t ruin the flavor of fresh food (various prices).

• Check the pasta menu: Look at the wall next to the second counter (opposite the entrance) for the daily pasta options on a short menu (5 euros each).

• Order and pay at the till: Tell them what you want, pay, and you’ll be given numbered receipts and a paper sheet to use as your table mat.

• At the pasta counter, you can also grab a small brown number from the basket at the counter. It can be useful during busy lunchtimes—the chef will call out your number when your pasta is ready. We didn’t wait for ours, but when we collected our plates, the place got a bit crowded.

• Find a seat and wait: You collect some items immediately, but the hot meals will be brought directly to your table by the staff.

• What to drink: They offer fizzy drinks, water, beer, and wine in carafes.

The €35 Feast: What We Ordered

As benefits gluttons (or foodies) we ordered too much—as always—and the portions there are solid.

Then we got a starter—you can choose three or six:

• 6 pieces of typical Sicilian snacks, i.e. grilled veggies and some fried stuff.

I had a piece of lasagne with pistachio and mortadella, Mauro opted for pasta with tomato sauce, meat, and pieces of pork rind. It sounds bleh, but it tastes very good.

We also had swordfish on a stick (swordfish spiedini) and 4 huge meatballs. We ordered water, 1/2 l white wine, and bread. And we paid 35 euros. And now it’s easy to understand why it’s a place where locals eat in Palermo.

No Fancy Smiles, Just Good Food

Basile Focacceria del Massimo is undoubtedly cheap, but in a good way. It won’t break the bank and serve you a solid, tasty lunch. If you know other places near Teatro Massimo where you can eat under 10 euros enjoying the most affordable pasta in Palermo center, let me know. And honestly, paying more than 10 euros for this basic dish in tourist traps sounds crazy to me.

Focacceria del Massimo is not a fancy place; it’s an eatery with working people who will give you food, maybeithout an enthusiastic smile when they see you, especially when they’re busy. Anyway, I believe it would be funny to expect super service in a place selling pasta for 5 euros. Does it mean the service was bad? Nope, it was just the service, neither good nor bad. It was neutral and efficient – we went there to eat, and we did it. And that’s everything that I expected from Focacceria del Massimo.

So if you are one of these people dreaming about a real Palermo experience, not having service like in the Sheraton is a part of it. Another part of the experience, it’s also eating in the place where locals eat in Palermo. 

Would I recommend Basile Focacceria del Massimo? Absolutely, it’s a great place for a good, cheap, authentic Sicilian lunch. And what you saved eating there, spend on ice cream or cannoli.

If this post made you laugh, annoyed you, or just reminded you of your own trip, tell me in the comments or drop me an email. I actually want to hear about your experiences—the good and the frustrating.

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