Valle dell’Orfento: B2 & S-Trail Essentials
Weekend with trekking in Abruzzo: Exploring the Majella National Park
Scenic Orfento Valley hiking (Valle dell’Orfento) and Ponte Del Vallone trail are great starting points for exploring a wild side of Italy in Majella National Park in Abruzzo. You won’t see the whole park — it covers nearly 100 square miles of mountains and canyons — but you’ll see two of its absolutely beautiful corners.
What’s great about Abruzzo is the choice: paths of various lengths for less and more experienced hikers, shaded forest trails, riverside walks such a real hidden gem – Orfento Valley hike, paths through open mountain or meadows full of flowers… simply Italian wilderness at its best.
Starting from Caramanico Terme: Registration and the Bear Myth
We picked out Ponte Del’Vallone and Valle del Orfento. The trail begins near Caramanico Terme and its tourist center in La Valle dell’Orfento. We registered there-i t’s a good idea if you do a self-guided hike to Orfento Valley; at least everyone knows where you are. Of course, I took my chance asking hundred questions about bears. I just wanted to make sure we won’t be eaten by one of them.
Just next to the centre, there are two walks to choose from: left to Sentiero Delle Scaille (about 20 min), or right to Valle Del’Orfento (Valley Orfento).
The Trail to Ponte del Vallone (B2): Forest Shade and River View
The left path was definitely too short, so we went right to the B2 trail leading to Ponte Del’Vallone and entered the forest.
After a short walk through the green and rugged landscape, the path led us into the mountains. The view was incredible. For me, the mountains in Abruzzo are what mountains should be: rocky and green enough to be simply beautiful. Feasting your eyes on the otherwordly landscapes, breathing in the fresh mountain air, taking photos, we continued on and reached another forest trail.
I enjoyed this sunless path and the silence, occasionally interrupted by singing birds. But of course, I was checking from time to time to see if there was a Marsician bear lurking behind the bushes. Somehow, I didn’t believe the woman at the visitor centre that there were no bears on the trail. What if one had got lost or moved from another part of Abruzzo?
Walking, we heard the rush of the river; were close to the wooden bridge – Ponte Del’Vallone that ends this part of the trail.
Lunch at the Wooden Bridge
We stopped there for lunch. Sitting on the riverbank, admiring the picturesque bridge perched on a large boulder, gazing at the crystal rushing water, I felt myself totally relaxed. And even the appearance of a crazy bear wouldn’t disturb my peace, unless it tried to setal my lunch. But even so, I would fight for my only sandwich.
The crystalline river roared invitingly – a swim, or at least a stroll in the water would be refreshing. It’s forbidden though.
Following every single ban is not my passion; neither breaking them just because I feel like it, or for climbing everywhere I can just for the sake of it. As a civilized human being, I decided not to trample the tiny inhabitants of the river, even though my feet were almost jumping out of my shoes, demanding some bath in a cool water.
The bridge is where you can make decisions about what to do. You can go back to the B2 or cross the bridge, and there are signs for other paths. Before you make up your mind, though, cross the bridge just behind it, and there’s a little waterfall.
From the bridge, you can see how to get to it, so you can decide if you want to jump between the rocks. We did it, and it was not as difficult as it might seem from the top.
Crossing the Orfento River Canyon to Ponte di Caramanico
We opted for the Ponte di Caramanico path (B2-S); it runs along the river through the forest. The walk is easy and takes app.90 minutes, but because there are many beautiful spots (photos!), it took us much longer.
The Orfento River is the only river in the Majella National Park that is full of water year-round. For thousands of years, it has been flowing between rocks, carving a canyon in the valley. In my opinion, the Orfento River canyon trail is one of the most beautiful hikes in Abruzzo, although I haven’t seen everything in the region yet. And if I had a better (read: any) knowledge of flora, I would have enjoyed trying to distinguish the numerous and varied species of weird plants growing there. We were there in the summer, but I can imagine that spring when the greenery is blooming, might be the best time to hike Valle dell’Orfento.
Crossing the Orfento River Canyon: Lianas, Moss, and Magic
Plunging into the Orfento Valley, we saw small wooden bridges crossing the river, roaring mini-waterfalls, and incredibly lush greenery. There were tiny flowers and plants with enormous leaves! The latter could easily serve as shelter in case of rain. Lianas hung from the trees – I felt like there should be mini-monkeys jumping on them. The river valley is simply magical, so I wouldn’t be surprised if there were pocket animals, tiny colourful houses, and maybe even dwarves.
The lush greenery, besides being a feast for the eyes, also provides excellent protection from the sun. There are some spots along the trail where the sun is a bit stronger, but the entire riverside walk is beautifully shaded, and we enjoyed the sounds of the flowing river. I thought that such a shady canyon could be humid, but we didn’t experience that.
Crossing the last wooden bridge, I accidentally turned my head toward it, and just behind me, I saw something extraordinary. There was a high gorge wall covered in moss and small plants. A small stream of water gurgled down the mountain, creating mini waterfalls that flowed into the river. The sun shone through the treetops, illuminating the wall, giving the greenery an intense colour. Drops falling from the stream shimmered in the sunlight. I stood for several minutes, gazing in pure awe at this artwork of nature.
Unfortunately, my photos don’t capture the beauty of this place, but you can still see something there. Then, all we had to do was climb the long stairs to the Ponte di Caramanico, which ends the path. To get to the center of Caramanico Terme, you can take a minibus (cost 2 euros), but you can also walk, which we did. Sticking to the main road in around 25 minutes we got to the town.
Is the Orfento Valley the Best Hike in Abruzzo
Are these the best hikes in Abruzzo? Probably not, but it depends on what you’re looking for. If you are into a family-friendly trekking in Majella, walking to Valle Orfento would be OK, especially when you start from the end – the Ponte di Caramanico. With your kids simply go down and you can have a great walk along the fairy-like canyon. If you’re for something really demanding – (again, it depends on your stamina and form) – these paths are not difficult. But if you’re looking for a track to admire nature, the Valley is a must. So even if it’s not the best track, for sure is one of the most beautiful trails in Abruzzo.
Essential Tips for Hiking Majella National Park
- Wear trekking shoes
- The trail, in my opinion, is generally easy, but there are some slippery/more demanding point
- The stairs to the last bridge are long, so it’s a good idea to take walking sticks
- Take water, I can’t remember any fountain on the track
- There are many places where you can have lunch
- In the summer, wear sunscreen
- Don’t be afraid of bears – there really are none
- In the registration centre you can also rent a child backpack carrier.