Monte Sacro Abbey in Gargano National Park, an old abbey on the hill, is an interesting spot to visit. After a short hike, you can get to a little-known place, even by many locals. 

History of Monte Sacro: From Pagan Temple to Benedictine Abbey

The Abbey of Monte Sacro (Abbazia di Monte Sacro) stands on a hill about 847 meters high; as everywhere in Europe, at the beginning there was originally a pagan temple there. Unfortunately for the pagans, the Bishop of Siponto had a vision: he saw the Archangel in a cave in the mountains. Of course, after that, the pagans had to pack their stuff and find another place to worship. Their temple was destroyed, the hill renamed from Monte Dodone to Monte Sacro, and a Benedictine abbey was built.

In the 15th century, the monks abandoned it – I’d like to write that they left the monastery in mysterious circumstances linked to the legend, but it’s not true. They just found a more comfy place, so Monte Sacro fell into ruins.

The Legend of Monte Sacro: Headless Monks and a Dark Tale

So what legend is associated with the monastery? Weird – it begins like a fairy tale and ends somewhere between drama and horror. The playful monks in this story lost their heads—literally and figuratively.

Once upon a time, shepherds living at the foot of the mountain would descend into the valleys to graze their animals. Their lonely wives would stay at home, waiting for the men to return. But one day, the monks from the abbey went to the settlement, begging for food and some pennies. The kind-hearted wives, of course, gave them what they asked for. The monks ate, grabbed pennies, turned into demons, and took advantage of the lonely wives.

Of course, nobody knew what caused this transformation. Maybe the women stuffed them with some strange food and the monks went crazy. Anyway, leaving humiliated women, the monks went back to the abbey. When, after months, the shepherds finally returned home, there was a surprise waiting for them – pregnant wives. Well, the men didn’t find it funny; they grabbed whatever was at hand and stormed the abbey. The monks tried to run, but the farmers caught them and cut off their heads.

How to Find the Trail to Monte Sacro from Mattinata

First, drive to Mattinata and find the sign “Monte Sacro” on the roundabout; head in the direction it points. Then just use your GPS, as there aren’t a lot of indications. The way from Mattinata takes about 20 minutes; after 15 minutes, start looking at the roadside. The place isn’t the easiest to find, but when you spot on the right a wooden fence/gate with a tree, a small sign, and whitish stones, you’ve probably found it. There is a new parking lot there, but I don’t know if it’s legal (another common practice in Gargano) or if you can actually park there. That’s why everyone parks on the side of the road anyway.

Thinking of going by bike? It can be tricky. The road is narrow, with bends, and sometimes drivers aren’t the most polite. Plus, consider your stamina – the road is hilly. Also, leaving your bike by the roadside might not be the best idea.
Then, to visit the former home of the mischievous monks, you have to climb the hill. It took me around 40 minutes, but I wasn’t rushing myself.

The Hike to Monte Sacro Abbey in Gargano : What to Expect on the Trail

I’ve visited it three times, the last time a few months ago. Abbazia di Monte Sacro in Gargano trail begins gently up a hill covered in plants and rocks that look like enormous mushrooms. They remind me of huge puffballs and not much smaller champignons.

In spring, the flowers show off their colours, lifting their heads above the grass and stones, creating a pleasant mix of shades that makes me feel truly spring-like there – and that’s not such an obvious feeling in the south of Italy.

Among these flowers are unique species of orchids — you won’t find them anywhere else. I have no idea which ones they are, but they must be truly special, since even organized tours come when they’re in bloom, and everyone runs around taking photos.

Even if the path goes a bit up, this part is really easy (speaking for myself), but it’s in the sun, so I wear a hat and sunscreen.

The next section of the trail was a bit amusing, as I encountered a whole lot of cows (again!). I’m not afraid of these adorable animals, but I am (or rather, was) a city girl. To this day, I can’t tell the difference between a cow and a bull, especially when they’re young. Fortunately, they were minding their own business and only occasionally glancing at me. I continued on, simply watching my step, as they had decorated the trail in a rather unpleasant way.

Fortunately, the cows aren’t a permanent feature of the landscape, so you don’t necessarily have to encounter them. It’s only happened to me once.

After a few minutes, I reached the forest and started climbing, sticking to the path. This part of the trail is entirely in the forest, so it’s in the shadows (yay!). It also starts to get more difficult; it can be a bit slippery in places, but it’s still absolutely doable. For me, it’s easy, but everyone’s fitness level is different. However, if you have any knee problems, it’s worth bringing sticks, which will surely help with walking uphill. There are places along the way where you can stop, sit down, and, for example, have lunch.

Exploring the Ruins of Monte Sacro Abbey in Foresta Umbra

It wasn’t my first time on Monte Sacro, so I knew what to expect. This time, an additional attraction was hiding among the ruins — cows staring at us. Monte Sacro is located in Foresta Umbra (The Umbra Forest), which gives it lush vegetation. Farmers illegally use the forest for pastures, but apparently no one cares. And this, unfortunately, is very common in southern Italy. So, once again, I was careful to avoid stepping in unpleasant surprises and simply enjoyed the surroundings, which are beautiful.

Among the ruins, you can still see the abbey’s original structure: a church with a bell tower, dormitories, a baptistery, a refectory with a kitchen, and so on. Here and there, you can see traces of frescoes on the walls, which, of course, have become increasingly faded over time. But don’t limit yourself to the main ruins. The monastery was large, so around in the forest you’ll find the ruins of buildings that once adjoined it, and you can wander around them.

The ruins are not preserved in any way; only nature takes care of them. Surprisingly, even with the ubiquitous cows peeking out from every hole, the place was picturesque. Fragments of the walls, overgrown with wild greenery and creeping ivy, looked beautiful. I was particularly captivated by the small plants trying to find a place to live in the smallest cracks in the old walls.

Sometimes it seems that nature is the best architect and protector. And since the place is really beautiful and peaceful (especially if there are no cows there), you could easily spend a few hours there, perhaps having a picnic, as part of the area is unshaded and covered with grass.

Why Monte Sacro Is Worth Visiting

It’s a shame that such places are left to their own devices, but then again, what can be done with them? Rebuild them or paint them pink? Probably not.
This is probably a problem for countries with a long, rich history and thousands of monuments, including Italy. Many places are simply abandoned, but on the other hand, I suspect that maintaining every monument would be incredibly expensive. It’s practically impossible, so the most impressive ones are preserved. That’s why places like the abbey at Monte Sacro are becoming increasingly hidden and taken over by nature. And that’s why they’re worth visiting, as long as they haven’t been completely overgrown by plants.

Practical Tips for Visiting Monte Sacro Abbey

• Bring water with you, as there’s no fountain on the path

• Wear comfy shoes, preferably trekking ones

• Take sunscreen as this hike in Gargano National Park is partly in the sun

• Take walking sticks if you have problems with knees or legs

• Take something to eat, as the surroundings are so nice that it’s worth having lunch there

If you want coffee or something to eat, there’s an agritourism farm near Monte Sacro. I haven’t eaten there, so I have no idea if they can cook, but the coffee was okay.