This is one of my main dilemmas while trekking in the Italian Apennines, especially in Abruzzo, where there’s a chance to see a Marsican Brown Bear: I’d like to encounter one, but I wouldn’t like being eaten by it. To be more precise, I wouldn’t like to meet it—but I would like to see it.
How to see a Bear in Abruzzo: The Reality of Wildlife Watching in Majella National Park
Probably the majority of hikers in the Majella National Park (Parco Nazionale della Majella) feel the same, i.e., excitement mixed with anxiety.
And if you believe that wildlife watching or trekking in Abruzzo may not be entirely safe – well, from my experience, and I’m still alive – it’s safe (unless you step off the path and fall down). Encountering Marsican Bears is a rare case. They simply are not interested in humans (we are not on their menu) and are rather shy.
Disappointed? No reason: there’s a place in Abruzzo to see bears, not the Marsican though. If they are in a mood to appear, you can also photograph them. You can even call them by their names, and listen to their story… from the guide, not from them, though.
Palena Bear Sanctuary: A Haven for the Eurasian Brown Bear
Palena Bear Sanctuary (Area Faunistica dell’Orso Bruno Palena) in the Chieti Province gives you such an option, however, the inhabitants of it are Eurasian Brown Bears, and not their Marsican cousins from Abruzzo.
What’s then the reason to have a sanctuary for non-native bears there? Well, because one bear – Catarina (after 34 years of living she died 2 years ago) was saved from captivity. Two others – Iris and Margherita – were born in captivity, and they can’t live in the wild. Even though not entirely free, these furry ladies can enjoy their own piece of wood and peace for the rest of their lives.
I know, it’s not really freedom, still much better though than sitting in a cage in a zoo or being a circus attraction, and the bears in Palena seem to be OK. The only thing that can piss them off are sometimes Italian tourists with their noisy kids; seeing these animals is one of the family-friendly activities in the Majella National Park.
How to get to Palena and what to do there
Palena, of course, like everything that is not super famous, is called by many one of Aventino Valley’s ‘hidden gems’. The village is close to Sulmona, Roccaraso, and Pescocostanzo.
I’ve already stated that I don’t have the best opinion about Italian public transport, so I hardly ever suggest using it. And actually, to get to the sanctuary, you need a car and your GPS.
Before heading off to the sanctuary, we spent a day in Palena. Even if it’s not one of the best villages in the Majella, it’s still remarkable. There’s a river and the path along it, which we did.
We also did Madonna dell’Altare Hermitage sentiero (hiking trail). And because it was the beginning of June, we also enjoyed great colours of Abruzzian orchids, which Palena is famous for.
How to visit the sanctuary:
We bought tickets directly in the small office in MOM (Museo dell’Orso Marsicano), but it has changed (practical tips down). The MOM is also the meeting point; when other people came, the guide jumped in his car, and lead our cars to the destination.
A few minutes (there was a traffic jam) and 3 km later, we parked; the whole group of visitors numbered maybe 35 of us. After being instructed how to behave, we walked down, and we saw a high fence made of metal bars surrounding a sizeable wood. We were asked to be quiet, and in silence started waiting for the bear’s grand entrance.
Italians, in general, can’t stop talking, so they kept grunting and giggling. After 2-3 minutes, they were chatting normally again, so the guide was shushing them.
Soon after, something brown started moving between bushes; everyone had their phones prepared to take photos. The bear, however, took its time, and another minute passed before it decided to move again. Everyone held their breath when the brown butt showed off in the bushes, near the fence. The bear, after presenting its bottom to the audience, slowly turned its snout to the hoarding, intrigued by the small red berries growing on the bush.
And at this moment, happy Italian kids (and some parents) started shouting. The poor bear, with a look in his eyes saying, “Gosh, it’s damn humans again,” retreated far into the bushes.
When they calmed down, another bear showed up. This one was more people-friendly, staying for a while close to the barrier, allowing us to take pictures. When it got bored, it left.
We spent another several minutes trying to spot the animals in their ‘private’ territory, overgrown with trees and other plants. But Iris and Margherita decided to hide themselves from prying eyes.
The bears also have a wooden house, which we saw later on. And that was the last point of the more or less one-hour-long visit in the sanctuary.
Is the Palena Bear Sanctuary Worth Visiting? My Honest Review
Is it the best way of seeing the bears in Abruzzo? To see the Eurasian bears – for sure, as they are not native to the Abruzzo region, and they don’t live freely there. Encountering a wandering Marsican bear in the wilderness would be a much more exciting option, but also a more dangerous one, especially when they have cubs. If you want to see any bears in a nature-like environment, Palena is a good place. And you can bring kids – they’ll be safe.
I have a bit mixed feeling if it comes to this Abruzzo wildlife watching experience. Yes, it was great to see these amazing animals from a really short distance without being chewed up and spat out. On the other hand, though, it’s still a kind of zoo-like adventure.
I have no doubts the animals are definitely happier there, but the crowd staring at the animals (I was one of them, of course), gave me this zoo sensation. If the groups were smaller, more like a private tour, it probably would be different. But again, with such cheap tickets, accommodating many visitors is crucial to keep the sanctuary going; providing the bears with a good life costs a lot. Additionally, the sanctuary also runs the Palena wildlife recovery/rehabilitation service for injured Marsican bears.
So if you are looking for unique things to do in Abruzzo and want to help in their mission, go there, buy tickets, and take pictures of the bears. Then you can boast that wandering off the beaten path in Italy you met a bear. And don’t worry, 99.99% of people won’t be able to distinguish whether it is a Eurasian or a Marsican one, but everyone will be amazed at how brave you were taking a picture of it.
Would I go there again? Probably not, even if I enjoyed the visit and I was excited when the bears turned up. I simply prefer places and activities with fewer people, that’s why I love Abruzzo – sometimes you won’t meet a living soul there.
Practical Guide to the Palena Bear Sanctuary
The “Reality Check”: Don’t expect a wild mountain trek. This is a guided, structured visit to a fenced rescue area in the Majella National Park.
1. How to Book Your Tickets
- You must book your visit by 6:00 PM the day before. The sanctuary uses WhatsApp for bookings—it’s fast and effective.
- WhatsApp Number: +39 339 8629165
- What to send: Date of visit, number of adults, seniors (65+), and children (ages 6-16 or under 5).
- Ticket Prices: 10 Euros for adults; 5 Euros for seniors and kids; children under 5 are free.
2. Meeting Point & Logistics
- Where to meet: Arrive 15 minutes early at the Marsican Brown Bear Museum (MOM) in S. Antonio a Palena (Province of Chieti).
- The Routine: You’ll meet the guide there and then follow their car in yours to the enclosure (about 3 km away).
- Transport: You need a car. I’ve said it before: I don’t trust public transport here. Use your GPS for “Palena” and don’t look back.
- The “Language” Situation: When we went, it was all Italian, maybe it has changed, but I’m not sure
3. Opening Hours & Hibernation
Bears hibernate in December and January, so the centre is closed.
March – May
Weekends & Holidays
9:30 AM – 11:00 AM
3:30 PM – 5:30 PM
June – September
Every Day
9:30 AM – 11:00 AM
4:00 PM – 7:00 PM
October – Nov
Weekends & Holidays
9:30 AM – 11:00 AM
3:30 PM – 5:30 PM
4. Accessibility, Pets & Safety
- Accessibility: The path is okay for strollers, but the sanctuary doesn’t advise visits for those with serious mobility, joint, or heart issues due to the terrain. If in doubt, ask them via WhatsApp.
- Dogs: Pets are not permitted. However, they offer a dog-sitting service—just make sure to request it when you book.
- Safety Warning: Keep a close eye on your kids. There is an electric cable between the visitor fence and the bears.
If this post made you laugh, annoyed you, or just reminded you of your own trip, tell me in the comments or drop me an email. I actually want to hear about your experiences—the good and the frustrating.
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