Hiking in Cilento in Campania is not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of this region. It is usually associated with the sea, Naples, and the Costiera Amalfitana.
Surprisingly, the province also has beautiful mountains, lakes, and rivers. And a lot of less or more impressive trails, like for example Sentiero Apprezzami l’Asino
At a Glance: Sentiero Apprezzami l’Asino
- Location: Sapri, Cilento National Park (Campania, Italy)
- Trail Type: Out-and-back coastal path
- Distance: 10 km round trip (full route to Canale di Mezzanotte)
- Elevation Gain: ~150 meters
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate (paved start, narrowing to a rocky, uneven path)
- Time Needed: 3–5 hours depending on pace and stops
- Trailhead & Parking: Port of Sapri (large public parking lot near the stairs)
- Essential Gear: Sturdy trail shoes (rocky past the broken fountain), minimum 2 liters of water (no drinkable water sources on trail), sun protection
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Where to Stay in Cilento: Our Base in Bosco
This time, we decided to spend three days in the mountains of Campania, choosing Bosco—a small village with a magnificent sea view—as our base. We stayed in a well-equipped, comfortable apartment overlooking the mountains.
Bosco itself, like most such tiny villages, may not be a particularly striking destination, but it is quite pretty, charming, and very photogenic. And that panoramic view of the Tyrrhenian coast…
The weather was great, so we decided to go to Sapri to do our first trail and then some shopping.
To kick off our active weekend with hiking in Cilento, we chose Sentiero ‘Apprezzami l’Asino’ – loosely translated as ‘I appreciate my donkey’ path.
The History Behind Sapri’s Donkey Trail (Sentiero Apprezzami l’Asino)
The name suggests that people walking this route loved, or at least appreciated their donkeys, but it has nothing to do with these feelings. The name comes from a not-so-nice local practice/legend. Originally called “Apprezzamm u’ Ciucc’i,” the route hundred years ago used to be the only coastal connection between Sapri and Maratea.
The narrow and sometimes steep path was used for transporting goods on donkeys. So when two donkeys met at one of these points, their owners evaluated both the animals and their loads. Then, in exchange for half the value of the cheaper donkey, the other one was thrown into the sea.
It was an awful of ‘apprecation’ practice, but the people living there were extremely poor, and it’s hard to judge them according to modern morals. But I think it would be nice if the locals erected a nice monument on the route to remember the poor animals.
Hiking in Cilento: the Trail From Sapri Port to the Coastal Path
The first two sections are very easy, then the path becomes more demanding; it includes several descents to the sea and very narrow sections, but in general it’s not complicated.
The path of the dead donkeys starts from the stairs right at the entrance to the port of Sapri, where you can also leave your car in a large parking lot.
At the beginning the route is beaten, so you can walk even in sandals. Once you reach the street, continue straight ahead; the next part is similar – very easy.
Trailhead to the Broken Fountain: Easy Walking
After reaching the broken fountain, you can go back or continue walking, but in this case sandals won’t be a good option.
The path changes: it is much narrower, more rocky, and not as comfortable (better to wear trekking shoes), but with great views of the coastline. And since the fountain was broken, there is no water on the trail; fortunately I always carry about two litres with me.
We decided to keep going until we reached the ruins of the Capobianco Tower (passing weird sculptures/installations turn right), one of the many built by the Kingdom of Naples.
We actually saw it by accident – we were just looking at the trees. We climbed the ruins of the tower and … oh, the view and the colour of the sea were simply amazing.
Where the Trail Continues: Torre di Mezzanotte and Spiaggia degli Angeli
It was getting late, though, so we turned back. The route continues, so if you want a bit longer coastal hike in Campania you can reach Scoglio dello Scialandro and the blue Spiaggia degli Angeli. If you keep walking, you get to the end of the route – the border beetwen Campania and Basilicata, and Torre di Mezzanotte (Tower of the North) and il Canale di Mezzanotte (Canal of the North).
The donkey’s trail was interesting, and actually, I’m going to do the whole route when I’m in Cilento again. The colour of the sea, cliffs overgrown with greenery and colourful flowers, and silence broken by the sound of birds and waves was worth walking through a narrow path.
And then before shopping, we decided to see the Sky Walk – a free attraction in Maratea
What we did in the next days in Campania, you can read here.
If this post made you laugh, annoyed you, or just reminded you of your own trip, tell me in the comments or drop me an email. I actually want to hear about your experiences—the good and the frustrating.
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