Beyond the Tourist Script

Italy as it is

La Sbirra in Termoli: Higher Prices, One Flaw, But Still the Best?

A multi-compartment white ceramic dish containing marinated anchovies, an octopus and tomato salad with lemon, and a squid salad with peppers, served next to a small metal pot filled with steamed mussels at La Sbirra restaurant. La Sbirra Termoli review.

For ages, La Sbirra in Termoli has been my favourite restaurant in all of Italy. I don’t even know how many times I’ve been there, but it’s one of the places I could visit over and over again. So, missing my beloved restaurant, we went there two weeks ago to eat and, as it turned out, to notice some changes.

Outdoor dining area of La Sbirra restaurant on a paved pedestrian side street in Termoli, Molise, Italy, featuring a large blue umbrella, several tables with seated guests, and white rectangular planters with green bushes lined up on the left side under a clear blue sky.

What to Expect: Service and Crowds at La Sbirra

This time we booked a table for lunch, and it was a good decision. The owner, as usual, welcomed us like old friends and sat us outside. I got the impression that there were even more tables out than the last time. Of course, I have never counted them, but it looked so.

Anyway, all the seats were occupied, and a few people were standing and waiting for a table to free. It was hard not to notice that La Sbirra is extremely popular. This impression was strengthened by almost empty restaurants on the left and right of La Sbirra. A funny sight, or maybe rather a sad one, especially if you own one of these businesses.

La Sbirra Termoli Review: What We Ordered This Time

Waiting for the owner to take our order, we were drinking water and nibbling on the bread brought to the table. Service in La Sbirra was normally rather quick and efficient, but this time we waited for a while. Although another waiter takes your drink order, food is the owner’s part. With a restaurant full of people, it was much slower than normal.

Having nothing else to do, I stared at what other people were eating, and I noticed that they had changed the way they served some dishes to a fancier one.

A bottle of "a Fiaschett" Falanghina IGP house wine by Fratino Cantine, served in a traditional rustic straw-covered glass fiasco bottle on an outdoor table at La Sbirra restaurant in Termoli, Molise, Italy.

And this is what I also like about this place—there’s always something new, even something as trivial as new plates or paper on the table. You can see that the owner is constantly thinking about what to improve in his place.

The Hits: Fresh Seafood Starter and Pasta

After several minutes, we finally ordered house wine and seafood starter – our go-to there. Wine was delivered in a rustic-style bottle. The starter hadn’t changed – very good marinated salmon, seafood salad, marinated anchovies, squid salad, tasty boiled mussels, and an amazing grilled octopus.

  • A multi-compartment white ceramic dish containing marinated anchovies, an octopus and tomato salad with lemon, and a squid salad with peppers, served next to a small metal pot filled with steamed mussels at La Sbirra restaurant. La Sbirra Termoli review.
  • Three grilled octopus tentacles served over a bed of cooked green leafy vegetables on a decorative white plate with a prominent yellow and blue ornate border.

Then Mauro opted for pasta with triglie and yellow tomatoes. Triglie (red mullet) is a small pinkish fish that I find annoying to eat. Its taste is pleasant, but the fish is very bony. Of course, in La Sbirra, it was torn into small pieces and without any bones. Mauro enjoyed it.

  • Potato gnocchi mixed with a rich tomato sauce and topped with grated cheese, served inside a small two-handled aluminum dish on a black and white geometric placemat at La Sbirra restaurant in Termoli.

I went for gnocchi with tomato and something else – I don’t remember what the other ingredient was, but there was only one gnocchi meal on the menu, so if you want gnocchi, it’ll be something like mine. This time they were served in a small aluminium dish. Tasty without any doubts.

The Flaw: Is the Grilled Seafood Plate Worth It?

Not wanting to eat a lot and as always roll out the restaurant, we took grilled seafood plate to share. Very often, such dishes are pretty large, and absolutely enough for two people.

A grilled seafood plate featuring a whole white fish with grill marks, a large piece of grilled swordfish steak, an octopus tentacle, a langoustine, and a shrimp, all served over a bed of green salad with a lemon wedge on a decorative yellow and blue patterned plate.

But La Sbirra surprised us – for the price (25 euros) the plate was…hmm, poor. Hoping for at least a great taste experience, we were slightly disappointed. The seafood was OK, but not as delicious as I expected in this place. The fish was dry and not worth this money.

Dessert and Coffee

Amazed, we decided to have coffee and dessert. I had a kind of cake made of cream – it pretended to be cheesecake. I’m not a big fan of creamy cakes and Italian pastries in general, but the cake was objectively tasty, just not my cup of tea.

  • A square piece of cream-based cake topped with finely crushed nuts or biscuit crumbs and a single dark berry in the center, served on a white plate with a yellow and blue ornate border.
  • A dome-shaped Delizia al Limone dessert coated in smooth white lemon cream, finished with a small swirl and lemon zest on top, served on a gold cardboard base over a decorative blue and yellow patterned plate at La Sbirra restaurant.

I wanted to try it, and I tried. If you like such a confection, you’ll be satisfied. According to Mauro, his delizia di Limone was not too sweet, very lemony, and delightful.

Termoli Restaurant Prices: The Bill at La Sbirra

Our lunch cost 140 euros. La Sbirra is probably a bit pricier, but again, the final bill depends on what you eat. We ordered a lot, so we also paid a lot.

The Verdict: Is La Sbirra Still the Best Place for Seafood in Termoli?

La Sbirra was open 10 years ago, I’ve been there probably 15 or more times, and for the first time, I was not very happy with one dish. Does it make La Sbirra worse than it was before? I don’t think so; generally, the quality of food hasn’t changed.

Will I go then to La Sbriia again after this wee disappointmet? Sure, in September, when my son comes over to visit me in Italy. We just won’t order a seafood plate anymore.

If this post made you laugh, annoyed you, or just reminded you of your own trip, tell me in the comments or drop me an email. I actually want to hear about your experiences—the good and the frustrating.

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