Weekend in Abruzzo –  My No. 1 in Italy

I believe I’ve already stated that I love Abruzzo. I’m sure I have, but I’ll do it again: for me, Abruzzo is no 1 in Italy. No wonder I happily jumped when we were going there again, hoping to see some snow. There was no snow; there were nice towns, confetti in the shape of everything, a closed road to Campo Imperatore, very good soup, and other surprises.

This time we decided to stay in Popoli. On the way there, just after leaving Molise, on the horizon dramatic mountains rose – I’ve seen the Majella Mountains a hundred times – and I’m still gazing at them in awe. Their peaks were covered with snow. But just the peaks.

Staying in Popoli: Central, Convenient… and Loud

The apartment we stayed in, in Popoli, is in the centre, a stone’s throw from the main square. This was fortunate, as we had a great view of the castle, and unfortunate, as it was the centre, with one annoying cafe playing very loud music until 2am. Well, not the best way to attract potential customers. But if his goal was to keep people awake – yup, he was really successful.

Sulmona – A Town That Would Be Famous Somewhere Else

In the afternoon, we went to Sulmona – one of these places which, if it were in an overcrowded Tuscany, would be a world-famous destination. But fortunately for me (and I’m guessing for Sulmona itself), it’s still in Abruzzo, so you, for example, can walk there and not be carried by the crowd.

Sulmona is the hometown of Ovid and fancy confetti, which simply amazes me – I mean confetti. Ovid amazes me a bit less, but because I still remember a part of his Metamorphoses, I recited it in Latin standing next to his statue in Sulmona. So bad that none of the locals appreciated my talent/skills.

Confetti in Sulmona: From Sweets to Art

What Confetti Actually Are

Confetti are a traditional kind of sweets – candy-coated almonds in different flavours, e.g. limoncello, tiramisu, ricotta, etc. In nice small bags, they are given during all kinds of family gatherings, and of course they are edible and pretty OK if you like sweets. And this kind of “normal” confetti is nothing fancy, not pricey at all, and you can buy it all over Italy, also in Sulmona.

Handmade Confetti Since the 1300s

But in the town, confetti became an art handmade since the 1300s. Almonds are covered with a colourful coat, connected with wires, making all kinds of shapes – flowers, bees, roses, hearts, etc. I bought two almond figurines (I don’t know how to call them) from the confetti Christmas edition – a snowman and gingerbread with lovely faces; they decorate my table, sticking out of a bottle.

The shops producing confetti keep their sweet cuties in baskets outside their doors, so the main street (Corso Ovidio) of the old town looks like a garden. Bouquets of red almond roses, yellow sunflowers, and blue something are delightful, adding spring colours to a mix of architecture from Medieval, Renaissance, and Baroque on a gray winter afternoon.

What Else Caught My Eye in Sulmona

Houses in the old town are beautiful, but two of the structures really struck me. The first is the medieval Aqueduct of Sulmona – through its arches, you see another square and, standing over it, the Majella Mountains (amazingly changing colours to pinkish with the last sun rays).

The second place that struck me is one you wouldn’t normally expect to like: the Tourist Office.
This one is worth paying a visit just to see the great interior of a very old pharmacy (17th century) in which the office is located now. And if you need another reason – the ladies working here are very helpful.

Churches, Darkness and Saving on Electricity Bills

There are, of course, some churches to see. We wanted to visit a cathedral and, surprisingly, the door was open (usually churches in Italy are closed if there’s no mass), showing darkness inside. One of the locals told us that the priest is just trying to save on electricity bills and switches off the lights in the evening.

Leaving Sulmona

The centre of Sulmona is small, compact, I would say, and really easy to walk around. The town is full of small shops, cafes, and restaurants, creating an atmosphere that everyone loves about Italy.
Going back to the car, we again visited Ovid standing on the pedestal. This time I didn’t recite anything – Ovid was like a stone, no reason to talk to him.
Being ignored by the poet, we went back to Popoli.