Gravina in Puglia, called by me the ‘uglier’ sister of the famous Matera, is a hidden gem usually skipped by tourists. Many don’t even know it exists, despite the fact it’s only a 30-minute drive from Matera. Why do I call it ‘sister’? Because, like Matera, the oldest part of the city consists of cave houses and churches carved into the rock. However, Gravina still feels more authentic, less crowded, and pleasantly local.
Gravina in Puglia lies on the border with Basilicata and can be reached either by car or a local railway from Bari.
Brief history of Gravina in Puglia
The town owes its name to the canyon-like fissures in the earth’s crust, but some sources also describes Gravina as “the city of churches carved into the rock’ or “the city of water and stone.”
The territory of Gravina has been inhabited since the Paleolithic period. In ancient times, here were the Greeks, then the Romans.
In the following centuries, it was invaded by all sorts of tribes and families, from the Vandals, through the Templars to the Bourbons; in the end Gravina became part of Italy.
What to see in the town.
I started by visiting the canyon created by water flowing through the Gravina area over the millennia. Thanks to the river, civilization appeared there, and the newcomers built a city in caverns. There are about eighty former troglodyte houses there, with window frames, ventilation holes and water tanks still visible.
Absolutely easy to spot the 90-meter-long bridge with the impressively long name Ponte Acquedotto della Madonna della Stella connect both sides of the city. It looks like an ancient aqueduct build by the Romans, but the structure isn’t that old – it was built in the 17th century. After being destroyed by an earthquake, it was rebuilt and transformed into an aqueduct to supply water to the city.
To get from the gorge to the almost circular (at least on the map) old town/historic centre, simply follow the cobblestone road.
The centre ofthe town is lined with nice tuff-made house connected by steps and narrow streets.
The old town offers many attractions, such as the Palazzo Ducale Orsini, located in Piazza della Republica, Palazzo Calderoni-Martini, Palazzo Popolizio, and Villa D’Ecclesis.
Gravina doesn’t overwhelm you with big, flashy museums, but The Museo Fondazione Ettore Pomarici Santomasi deserves your attention. Inside, you’ll find coins, dresses, and even the couch used in James Bond’s No Time to Die. Although it was filmed in Matera, Bond jumped off the bridge in Gravina. A museum with such intriguing exhibits should be more popular in my opinion.
Beneath it there is also an underground church with frescoes.
Gravina Cathedral, which is of course the main church in the town, was built by the Normans. After a an earthquake and fire in the 15th century, was magnificently rebuild. Cathedrals are usually the most stunning churches in any town, but I didn’t visit Gravina’s cathedral, so I don’t know if it’s worth visiting.
The church I can recommend is San Michele delle Grotte, located outside the centre of Gravina in Puglia. Carved into the tuff rock with five naves and 14 stone columns, it’s considered one of the most interesting in the area.
Inside you can see still retained vivid colour frescos, and three statues. What else catches the eye is the collection of skulls and long bones. In theory/legend they belong to martyrs from the Saracen attack in 999. But probably they were collected during the 17th and 18th centuries.
I took a tour with a group of Italians. The priest, a very entertaining guide, knowing I wasn’t Italian, practically bent over backward trying to speak English. He seemed rather astonished and happy when he remembered an English word. And if he couldn’t remember, he simply helped himself with his hands. This was very funny and kind of him, because he could simply ignore me and speak only Italian.
In addition to numerous above-ground attractions, the city also boasts a hidden part – Gravina Subterranea, which houses vineyards, grain warehouses, and cisterns, among other things. You can see it with a guide from the Gravina Subterranea Association. When I’m writing it, admission is free, but a donation is appreciated after the tour.
Murgia National Park, a cool place if you like trekking, all around the year, as each season offers something amazing. In spring – intense greenery and colourful flowers such as wild tulips, gladioli, and orchids . In autumn you will be amazed by the colours of leaves, cyclamen, and colchicum.
Food and Wine
Ancient inhabitants cultivated vines, produced wine, and traded it as early as 1,200 years ago.
Verdeca di Gravina: This is what made Gravina famous – a sparkling wine characterized by a greenish color, and unique taste: fresh and creamy, which leaves a very pleasant aroma in the mouth.
It was created accidentally: the wine was placed in barrels made of wood typical of the region and stored at temperatures comparable to other local wines. In such pleasant conditions it developed bubbles and a slightly sweet flavour in the cellars dug into the tuff. But the true uniqueness of this wine lies in its re-fermentation using three grape varieties native to the Gravina region.
If you’re in the area, you absolutely must try a glass of this exquisite wine, savour all its nuances, and be enchanted by its aroma!
Where to Eat in Gravina.
The town is part of the Slow Food movement, so expect freshly prepared dishes (and sometimes longer waits). The local cuisine is based on olive oil and dairy products made from milk from local pastures, and locally grown vegetables.
The city has many restaurants and cafes, so finding a good place for lunch or dinner won’t be a problem.
For morning coffee, I’d recommend Caffe Bella Vista – they also offer a super lunch for 15 euros/ person. For this price, your table will be filled with appetizers, followed by pasta or risotto, a main course, vegetables, coffee, and dessert.
Located in the heart of Gravina, La Ghiottoneria Panzerotteria at Piazza Scacchi 4 is, according to locals, one of the best panzerotti restaurants in the area. You can try traditional and less traditional panzerotti.
For dinner, despite the touristy name, head to Trattoria Mama Mia!. This popular restaurant (it’s worth booking a table) serves exclusively local dishes at reasonable prices.
If you’re looking for something more posh (so no shorts or flip flops), I can recommend Ristorante Evo on Viale Orsini 15, where you can get fish and meat dishes.
Is Gravina Worth Visiting?
I always struggle to find adjectives to define towns like Gravina or Matera, as , in my opinion, none of them is beautiful. Interesting for sure, though. Certainly not as breathtaking as Matera, Gravina is impressive, a bit strange, very old, and has a unique atmosphere – somewhere between nature and the city.
It might be a cool place for a nice, affordable holiday. The town isn’t particularly touristy (it wasn’t when I was there), so prices are still reasonable. The people are friendly, and the weather, as usual in the south, is sunny. Gravina in Puglia still feels authentic and is a town where locals live. In the evening, you can walk among the residents of the main square and be the only foreigner
If you decide to spend a few days there, you certainly won’t regret it.
