Beyond the Tourist Script

Italy as it is

Polignano a Mare Food: What to Eat and Where (Local Guide)

An outdoor dining scene in Polignano a Mare, Italy, featuring a white bowl of seafood spaghetti with clams, mussels, and a central prawn, flanked by fresh basil. Beside it on a wooden table are a cut lemon, a cup of espresso, and a scoop of mango gelato in a cone, with a view of the sea and whitewashed buildings on cliffs in the background.



In Polignano a Mare, as everywhere in Italy, pizza, pasta, and even Bolognese sauce are available, but who goes to Polignano to eat such dishes? Maybe some people do, but definitely not me.

The town is packed with restaurants, bars, and eateries; still, finding real Polignano a Mare food takes knowing where to eat and what to order—without begging for money later to get home.

Polignano a Mare Food – Quick Overview & Must-Tries

  • Signature Local Dishes: Tiella Barese (rice, potatoes, mussels), Fave e Cicoria, Parmigiana di Melanzane
  • Famous Street Food: Panini di mare (gourmet fish sandwiches), local Pugliese focaccia
  • Must-Try Drink: Il Caffè Speciale (espresso with lemon zest, amaretto, and cream)
  • Average Meal Cost: €10–15 per person for street food/sandwiches; €30–40 per person for a sit-down dinner with wine
  • Seafood Specialty: Raw seafood platters (crudo di mare), octopus, and red prawns
  • Local Ice Cream: Traditional gelato at historic town gelaterias (approx. €3 per scoop)

Here’s a quick guide to Polignano a Mare food.

1. Raw Seafood (crudo di frutti di mare)

A close-up photograph of a large, round platter piled high with fresh seafood served on crushed ice at a table by the Mediterranean Sea. The platter includes raw red prawns, deep sea prawns, clams in their shells, fresh oysters, calamari rings, and two spiky sea urchins filled with their orange roe. Slices of lemon are scattered throughout the seafood. In the background, there is a bottle of olive oil, a basket of bread, and a glass of white wine. The viewpoint is from the table looking out at the turquoise water and the white, cliffside town of Polignano a Mare, Italy. The lighting is bright daylight, and the focus is sharp on the seafood platter.



You can find it in every seaside town in Italy, including Polignano. Choose from 
cuttlefish, sea urchins, red and purple shrimp, mussels, and various types of fish. I wouldn’t try it because
I don’t like having my lunch or dinner moving or even worse – staring back at me, but if you’re brave enough… Of course it’s a matter of taste, and I’ve seen plenty of people delight in crudo di frutti di mare.

2. Rice with Potatoes and Mussels (La Tiella Barese)

 

Close-up of Tiella Barese, a traditional dish from Puglia made with layers of rice, potatoes, and mussels, baked together in a rustic terracotta dish.



Surprisingly, a really tasty typical dish from the province of Bari. Surprisingly, because when I heard the list of seemingly incompatible ingredients”, I was ‘Mamma mia, why not throw in some carrots too? The dish is made with onions, potatoes, mussels, rice, and pecorino cheese. Sounds weird, but it is truly good. It’s not heavy, fills you well, and you can taste all main ingredients. Tiella Barese is absolutely worth trying.

Fave e Cicoria (Broad Beans with Chicory)

 

A rustic clay-colored bowl filled with creamy fava bean purée topped with sautéed greens, garnished with chili flakes, and served with a wooden spoon.


I’m almost addicted to it. One of my favourite Italian dishes (yup, it’s not pizza) can only be found in Puglia. It’s a puree made of cooked dried broad beans mixed with bitter-tasting green chicory, usually served with toasted/grilled bread. A very simple, really good dish. Fave e Cicoria is suitable for vegans, if you’re (unfortunately) one of them.


4. Parmigiana di Melanzane (Eggplant Parmesan)

A pretty heavy plate made of eggplant, ham, Parmesan cheese, and tomato sauce. Fortunatelly, usually Parmigiana di melanzane portions in restaurants are not excessively large, as it’s a side dish. If you don’t eat a lot, it might also be a main course.

5. Focaccia Barese in Polignano


Focaccia is typical of Bari, and essentially, focaccia from Polignano has the same ingredients as the one from Bari. But in Polignano you have to eat Polignano focaccia, and not something from Bari. So to make their focaccia local, Polignano bakers have a different method of kneading and baking it. And there’s something else, but in my opinion, focaccia from Bari and focaccia from Polignano taste the same. Call me ignorant, because my Italian partner claims they’re very different. But Italians always say their food is unique, so just try the (extra)ordinary focaccia from Polignano too.

6. Fish Sandwiches (Panini di Mare)

A sandwich filled with grilled octopus tentacles, lettuce, and tomato, served in a crusty bread roll and wrapped in paper.

 
This is a very popular lunch option. I haven’t tried them in Polignano, but judging by the number of people lining up, they must be decent, or at least trendy. Maybe it’s just a better and cheaper option than eating in a restaurant. The rolls are filled with seafood like raw salmon, octopus, shrimp, swordfish, etc., burrata, lettuce, and other mysterious toppings. They cost around €10-12, so try them and leave a comment if they’re worth queuing .

7. Polignano a Mare Coffee


This special Polignano coffee, flavored with sugar, lemon zest, cream, and amaretto, is served in small glasses. It tastes interesting, so go to one of the bars where a more or less polite bartender will serve it to you.

Two glasses of espresso with a thick layer of golden crema, placed on a light grey background.

Where to eat well to enjoy Polignano a Mare food?



Polignano a Mare has places for various budgets. If you want to eat cheaply – sure, there are many eateries. If you have a whim to splash out on a fancy restaurant, Polignano has that too.

A while ago, without hesitation, I would have recommended Le Focacce Ignoranti on Via Roma 48. After my last visit, I still believe it is an OK place to eat, but not as great as it used to be. The food is still good, though not as tasty as the first time.

Perhaps the chef had a bad day, but that’s probably because this once-small restaurant has expanded and now has many more outdoor tables. The owner clearly prioritized quantity over quality. If I didn’t have a comparison from my previous visit, I would probably call the food excellent.

Anyway, there are a few things to try: rice with potatoes and mussels, orecchiette with crema di cime di rapa and stracciatella, fried zucchini flowers stuffed with mozzarella, and ricotta and chocolate cake. It’s still very good, so I believe you can be satisfied. Prices are the same in most restaurants in Polignano these days, so a bigger lunch for two with a bottle of wine will cost you at least €60.

A lively Italian street lined with white buildings, outdoor cafés, and people dining under umbrellas, with pedestrians walking along the cobblestone path on a sunny day.

 Another good place to eat on a budget is Pescaria at Piazza Aldo Moro 6/8. You can get sandwiches, tartare salads, fried fish, and fish balls there. They also have vegetarian and vegan options. There are usually long lines there during lunch hours, so if you’re starving, it might not be the best option.

Al Buco Preferito Tranquillage, which I visited about two years ago, is located at Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 4, right in the town center. They make pizza, and I remember it was good. I hope it still is. The place is tiny, but you can sit outside.

I occasionally visit posh restaurants, but generally, I’m not a fan of these types of places. I prefer places where you don’t have to dress up and where no one stares at me when, for example, I drop something off my plate or spill wine on myself. I haven’t been to any of the fancy restaurants in Polignano yet, so I can’t recommend any. But as soon as I visit one, I’ll update this post.

After an Italian lunch, (almost) everyone drinks coffee and eats gelato.

For coffee, you absolutely must go to Il Super Mago del Gelo, located at Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi 22. The bar has a long history and, according to the locals, hasn’t changed in years. They serve this special coffee I mentioned above. The bar is always crowded, and because of that, the staff might not be in the best mood.

According to locals, the best ice cream in Polignano a Mare can be found at Caruso, at Via Martiri di Dogali 3. They have a wide selection of flavors, so you’re sure to find something you like. Ice cream prices have also increased, so a scoop now costs €3, if I remember correctly.

And that’s it. If you were worrying that you would starve in Polignano a Mare, don’t worry because you won’t, unless you are on some extreme diet. And even if so, it’ll be easy to break it there. So enjoy your visit to Polignano’s restaurants.

Do you know of any other dishes or places worth recommending in Polignano a Mare? Let me know in the comments.