Who visits Molise in winter? Almost no one. And that’s a mistake. In just two days, I found mountains without the crowds, waterfalls glowing turquoise against bare winter trees, and villages that look like fairytales—or ghost towns.

Here’s what 2 days in January looked like.

Molise in winter – day 1: Campitello Matese, Cascate Rio, and Castelpetroso.

Campitello Matese in Campobasso

On the way to Molise, we stopped for a few hours at Campitello Matese, which is a liked destination year-round; in the winter, it’s also the most popular ski resort in southern Italy.

We rarely set off on time, and usually get to the place around lunchtime, which has a huge advantage: for Italians, mealtime is a sacred time, and everyone goes to eat, so the places are usually empty. It was exactly the same with Campitello; we could enjoy the area without the crowds.

The mountains, without a horde of skiers or sledders, were simply fantastic. And because the snow was the reason of stopping in Campitello, we didn’t bother with the historical attractions in town.

The weather was sunny and windless, just great for a nearly three-hour, calorie-burning walk through fairly deep snow. We built a snowman and then decided to go sledding, which, like other equipment, can be rented or purchased locally.

Even if you don’t ski, Campitello Matese in winter is perfect for enjoying the snow, sitting in a café, photographing the mountains, or just relaxing.

Cascate Rio

About a 25-minute drive from Campitello Matese is the small, beautiful Cascate Rio park. It was our first point we visited in Molise in Winter. 

I’ve seen many waterfalls, including those in Italy, so this one didn’t particularly impress me, but the entire place is charming. It’s a small recreational area with a river, a barbecue area, and a bench opposite a waterfall cascading down the mountainside. Although the waterfall is close to the road, the area is green and watery, and you can pleasantly while away hours there.

Where We Stayed

We spent one night in a small village, Castepetroso, in the province of Isernia. Castepetroso is beautifully surrounded by lush forests and hills. The village is peaceful and charming with its stone buildings and narrow streets. The village is famous above all for what, from a distance, looks like a huge palace where Snow White could have lived. However, it is the Basilica of Our Lady of Sorrows ‘Minore’ (Santuario di Maria Santissima Addolorata). We didn’t have a chance to see it inside because it was closed.

L’angolo Fiorito guesthouse in Castepetroso.

We spent one night there. It’s a good place for a short stay in Molise in winter; our room was on the ground floor, which probably explains why it was a bit cold. For breakfast, the guests prepare their own coffee or tea, while the typical Italian breakfast—cakes, Nutella, jams, and other sweet treats—waits on the tables.

The B&B is located in an old building, which certainly adds to its charm, but it also has its drawbacks, such as the high stairs leading to the dining room. If you have mobility issues, it might not be the best place to stay. I don’t generally have such issues, but my knees weren’t thrilled with the stairs.

In the evening, we had dinner at the Donna Carmela restaurant, in which we were the only guests. Why were we the only guests? You’ll read about it soon.

Molise in winter – day 2: Carpinone waterfall & old town, Monastery, and Lake Castel San Vincenzo

Carpinone Waterfall (Cascata di Carpinone) in Carpinone

The next morning, we went to another waterfall, and again, the GPS went haywire: it found the town, but not the waterfall, so we drove up and down until we finally asked the locals for directions. Locals are usually a more reliable source of information than Google Maps.

The path to the waterfall begins in town – after passing the main square, you’ll see a sign.

I forgot to bring my trekking boots, so I thought I wouldn’t make it, as I was wearing super comfortable, great for city sidewalks, low-heeled shoes. Hallelujah, I managed to do the entire route without sliding on my butt. It’s much better to wear outdoor shoes to avoid slipping, or to move faster than 10 steps per minute.

The first part of the path looks like a broken sidewalk/staircase leading into the forest. The path is well-marked and secured with metal and rope handrails.

Upon reaching a small bridge and intersection, you can either cross the river and head to the next waterfall, or turn left, as we did, and head for the Carpinone Falls.

When we reached the waterfall, we were the only people there; apperantly people don’t hike a lot in Molise in winter.The silence was broken only by the sound of falling water and singing birds. The waterfall, or rather its two branches, isn’t large, but it is beautiful, with incredibly turquoise water cascading over the rocks.
And although the greenery isn’t particularly lush in winter, the large, moss-covered rocks and the small plants growing everywhere made this place seem magical to me.

Returning, we decided to take the uphill path to Carpinone.

As we thought, we had reached the historic center. The old town is dotted with beautiful stone houses.
I’m not sure if all of Carpinone, or just its historic part, shares the fate of many small Italian towns, which people flee for various reasons, slowly becoming ghost towns. I love old towns, so for me, the old part of Carpinone was still beautiful, even with many crumbling buildings and houses for sale, but also because of that, rather sad. It was lunchtime and the streets were empty, but the old town didn’t feel like a place bustling with life at all.

Carpinone also has an impressive, abandoned, and closed castle.

The panorama of the old town with the castle looks really nice from a distance, but it’s a shame that it looks much worse up close.

San Vincenzo al Volturno – Benedictine Monastery (Abbazia di San Vincenzo al Volturno).

Next, we moved on to the monastery in San Vincenzo.

The first thing I noticed was the mountain view from the church courtyard. Through the stone columns connected by arches, we could see snow-capped peaks rising proudly above the delicate green grass of the meadows. Here and there, trees were sprouting their first leaves. After a moment of awe, we headed to the monastery.

Well, I wouldn’t say it was a particularly interesting place. The church is just that, a church, with a few old artifacts outside and a rather dull exhibition inside. If you’re interested in its history, you can find out about it in the glass cases in the small museum section of the church.

Fortunately, after leaving the rather dull church, an incredible view of the mountains awaited us again. And it actually made up for the visit to the monastery. If you don’t want to see the monastery, come for the beautiful panorama alone.

Molise in winter has a surprising amount of stunning landscapes.

Lake Castel San Vincenzo ( Lago di Castel San Vincenzo).

On Sunday, before leaving, we decided to grab lunch, which is no easy feat after 2:00 PM in small towns in Molise in winter, as everything is closed. Well, actually almost everywhere.
Looking for something open, we stopped by the lake; my first impression was , hmm, it’s just a lake. I was born and lived in a town with a lake in the center, so I’m quite demanding when it comes to ‘watery’ places.

On the other side of the reservoir, we noticed a few cars and a building that looked like a restaurant, so we crossed the bridge to the other side. There was indeed a closed restaurant, people picnicking, and lazy, fat cats posing for pictures and begging for bites, and a truly amazing view.

The seemingly natural lake, built in the 1950s, is surrounded by forests, and its turquoise water mirrors the Mainarde Mountains. In January, their peaks were covered in snow, so their white peaks reflected in the lake’s surface. The view was incredible. I can imagine how beautiful it is there in spring, when it’s green and blooming.

After feasting our eyes but still with empty stomachs, we set off toward Manfredonia.

My Impressions of Molise in winter

A few years ago, I spent eight months in Molise, working at a school in Termoli. I explored the surrounding area, of course, visiting Campobasso and a few other places, but I didn’t know that Molise had such beautiful spots.

I believe that Molise, Basilicata, and Abruzzo are the most underrated regions of Italy. I hope they never become as popular as, say, Tuscany, but they probably won’t. They aren’t for mass tourism; you won’t find many sophisticated places there, not even fancy restaurants/bars/museums or benches to sit on after a 50-meter hike. These regions are for people who love hiking and still find wild or semi-wild, unpopular spots. So, for people like me, and I hope for you too.

Practical tips to visit Molise in winter (and all year)

• Getting around: A car is essential. Public transport won’t take you to waterfalls, lakes, or mountain villages.

• Best season: January means snow in the mountains (Campitello Matese) and fewer crowds everywhere.  But actually, all seasons have something to offer

• Difficulty: Easy–moderate. Waterfall walks can be slippery in winter, so hiking shoes are recommended.

• Food: Small-town restaurants often close after 2 PM and on Sundays, so plan meals ahead.

• Stay: Since hotels are just for sleeping to me, I prefer simple, cheaper guesthouses and B&Bs rather than luxury hotels, but in Molise you will find hotels for more demanding tourists.